Fall into flavor with versatile squash

It seems like yesterday when I picked up the vibrant, flower-filled, railing boxes from our local greenhouse.  Last week, I noticed that those boxes on the deck railings have thinned out, and sadly, the colors are dissipating. I was reminded, as the temperature at night drops, plant life slows down, and very soon, nature’s artistry takes over blanketing the landscape with vibrant colors.

Fall arrives next week. Along with the arrival of autumn, are the farmers markets displaying myriad crops of the seasonal harvest.  A popular fall harvest is squash, a vegetable belonging to the gourd family (Cucurbitaceae).

I’ve been stalling purchasing those mini pumpkins (a type of squash) that are displayed on my fireplace mantle. The beginning of August was too soon to think about fall. Many of the stores I visited at the end of July and beginning of August welcomed me at the entrance with displays of all sorts of fall décor. Why do we rush the seasons away…. Well, maybe we do want that with winter!

People love squash because the flavor connects them to holidays, special occasions, and family gatherings. Perhaps this is why some people were flocking, or will soon be, to the farmers’ stands to purchase their pumpkins, squash, gourds, and other seasonal fare.

The mild flavor offers a blank canvas to create sweet or savory dishes, whether it be soups and salads, appetizers, casseroles and, most importantly, at least for me, dessert. This time of year, winter squash takes over from summer squash. One big difference between summer and winter squash is the winter variety’s thicker skin and denser, sweeter flesh. And, unlike summer squash, they can be stored for a longer period, thus they are available all winter. Popular varieties are butternut, hubbard, acorn, spaghetti, and of course, pumpkin. The type of preparation is varied; mashed, pureed, and often used as pie and pastry fillings.

One of my favorite single subject cookbook authors is Julia Rutland, who wrote “Squash: 50 Tried & True Recipes” (2019, Adventure Publications, $16.95).

Rutland’s recipes will become instant family favorites, especially for autumn. The book’s full-color photography adds to the enjoyment of cooking. Her pointers on buying and cooking squash, along with practical tips for cutting tough-skinned winter varieties, along with creative recipes, make the book a must for squash lovers. Additionally, if you grow squash in your garden, and it produces more than you can eat, you’ll find simple and delicious ways to preserve your crop.

I think I will give-in this weekend and buy those mini-pumpkins and some squash. Perhaps the calendar is reminding me to let some squash-themed dishes and adornments contribute to the overall festive atmosphere of the upcoming season. And…my mouth has been watering since reading the recipes from Rutland’s book.

For the recipes for Pumpkin-Cream Cheese Streusel Muffins and Butternut Squash-and-Quinoa Salad, visit https://bit.ly/3kF6RwL.

Pumpkin-and-Pepita Parker House Rolls

7 tablespoons butter, divided

½ cup pumpkin or butternut squash puree

1 cup cream, half-and-half, or whole milk

2 large eggs, divided

¼ cup sugar

3 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 envelope (2 ½ teaspoons) active dry yeast

1 ½ teaspoons salt

Pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds)

Flaky sea salt

Note: Allow the cream, egg and butter to reach room temperature before mixing together because cold ingredients will slow down the rising process.

Melt 4 tablespoons of butter. In the bowl of a stand-up electric mixer, beat 4 tablespoons melted butter, pumpkin puree, cream, 1 egg, sugar, flour, yeast and salt, mixing until a dough forms. Knead on a lightly floured surface (or in mixing bowl with a dough hook) about 5 minutes or until smooth. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, turning to coat surface. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours or until doubled in bulk.

Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Brush a 9-inch-by-9-inch baking dish lightly with some of the melted butter. Set aside.

Punch dough down and divide into 18 pieces on a floured surface. Roll into balls, and place in prepared baking dish. Brush tops with remaining melted butter. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 45 minutes or until puffed (but not doubled in size).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk remaining egg and brush over tops of rolls. Sprinkle with desired amount of pepitas and sea salt. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown. Makes 1 ½ dozen.

Pumpkin Hummus

The headnote says, “There are lots of hummus flavors in stores and you can easily make this unique fresh version anytime with ingredients kept in the pantry. The pumpkin flavor is a fun riff you can serve at Halloween parties and through the rest of the fall holidays.”

Pumpkin Hummus – Healthy and delicious and easy to prepare.

1 (15-ounce) can pure pumpkin

1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup tahini

1 garlic clove, sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon smoked paprika or ground cayenne pepper

Pita chips

Garnish: toasted pumpkin seeds

Combine pumpkin, beans, lemon zest and juice, tahini, garlic, oil, cumin, salt, and paprika in a food processor; process until smooth. Spoon into a serving bowl; garnish, if desired. Serve with pita chips. Makes 3 cups.

Butternut-Rosemary Risotto

The headnote says, “Risotto is a creamy rice dish made specifically with a medium-grain Italian rice called Arborio. Arborio contains a good bit of starch that, when cooked slowly with small amounts of broth, creates a silky, saucy texture. Make sure the squash pieces are cut to the same size for even cooking.”

4 tablespoons butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 ½  cups Arborio rice

2 cups peeled and cubed butternut or other hard winter squash

½  cup white wine

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth, warm

½  cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

½  teaspoon salt

¼  teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes or until tender.

Add Arborio rice and squash; cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Stir in wine. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 to 2 minutes or until wine evaporates.

Add 1 cup broth to risotto mixture and cook, stirring constantly or very frequently, until liquid is absorbed. Repeat with remaining broth, 1 cup at a time, until liquid is absorbed after each addition.

Remove from heat and stir in cheese, rosemary, salt and pepper. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Turkey-and-Winter Squash Pot Pie

The headnote says, “Put this recipe on your to-do list after Thanksgiving because it’s great for leftover turkey (and the rest of that package of celery!). I tend to use shortcuts like refrigerated piecrusts after a big food-filled holiday, but you can substitute your favorite homemade double-crust pastry.”

4 tablespoons butter

3 stalks celery, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 ½ cups cubed butternut squash or other winter squash

¼ cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons poultry seasoning

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup chicken or turkey broth

1 cup half-and-half

3 cups chopped or shredded cooked turkey

1 (15-ounce) package refrigerated piecrusts

1 egg, lightly beaten

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add celery and onion. Cook, stirring frequently, 5 minutes. Add squash. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes until vegetables are almost tender.

Stir in flour, poultry seasoning and salt. Cook for 1 minute.

Add broth and half-and-half, stirring until well blended. Bring to a simmer; simmer 5 minutes or until thickened and bubbly. Stir in turkey.

Place one piecrust in bottom of a 9-inch pie plate. Add filling, and cover with remaining crust. Fold over edges and crimp to seal. Make several slits in top. Brush with egg. Bake 30 to 40 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly. Makes 6 servings.

Stephen Fries, is Professor Emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, CT. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 15 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, CT. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Stephen@stephenfries.com